From Haole To Hero: The Life of Big Wave Surfer Laird Hamilton

He Chose To Compete With The Ocean, Not With Others

Photo Credit: Instagram/@lairdhamiltonsurf

Throughout everything, Laird was an avid surfer and a good one at that. Most likely, he would have been able to win many surf contests around Hawai’i and beyond. But unlike many Hawaiian kids who pursue a professional surfing career, Laird chose a different path.

When asked why, Laird admits he’s a terrible loser and avoids competition because he can’t stand to lose. Raised on the islands, Laird is a true waterman and takes great care to understand the ocean. He also sees surfing as an art form, that isn’t meant to be judged. He told Huffington Post, “My competition was you’re stuck in a rip current, you don’t make it, you drown. You just go to the death and that’s why I’m still here. Because I survived it.”